Home | Sundevil/Winter Wall | Early Wall | Grotto| Cockscomb Crag
| Evil Paradise Area of the Grotto |
These routes are located on the same side of the canyon as the preveous routes about 100 yards further up the canyon. This is where the upper tier basalt intersects with the canyon floor, resulting in supurb rock accessable from the ground.
Evil Paradise 10c ***. This climb has it all; crack, slab, laybacks, and face climbing. The only evil part is if you attempt it in the summer during the afternoon. It faces south and it is in fact hotter than hell.
Hidden Slab 10a **. A great moderate with emphasis on brains over brawn. It is shaded by the buttress to it's south making it great summer venue, except if it is damp. The shade helps the lichen colony that is prevalent, which can be very slick even with the slightest wetness.
Sunday Bloody Sunday 10c ***. A stupendous trad route up the dog leg crack. Belay/rap anchors at the top. The best start is shown in bold dots, but it is hard to protect and challenging. One can traverse in from the left with a bit more confidence, illustrated with smaller dots.
Lucifer's Hammer Drill 12d **. The crux has repelled many a 5.13 climber, which requires lots of power and flexibility. However, there are several no-hands rests allowing power to edge out endurance on this one. The drill kept malfunctioning while putting it up, but no projectile vomiting thus far.