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Lower Grotto

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Sport Routes

  1. KSR (Ken's Shitty Route) 10d. It's not that bad. There are some fun moves and its reasonably long. This is a good route to climb in order to approach Medussa and Euro Fag on the upper tier. There is a second set of anchors 50 feet beyond the top anchors for the upper belay.
  2. Chopping Block 11a. The chossy rock at the top negatively compensates for the asthetic movement prevalent at the bottom. Probably worth doing, but not as a first choice.
  3. Evil 10c/d **. A bouldery start leads to continuous but easier climbing above. Shares anchors and a couple of bolts with Good. Either Evil or Good may be used to approach Mary Poppins or Guillotine Crack on the upper tier.
  4. Good 10b **. Technical and steep for the grade, a great warm-up.
  5. Berger's Bakeshop 10d **. An excellent route with challenging moves between the face and the arete and back again. Sustained.
  6. Affirmative Action 10c **. A bouldery start leads to an easy midsection with a steep and pumpy finish. Getting started is always the hard part.
  7. Waiting to Procrastinate 10b **. Don't put this one off. A fine moderate with good moves interdispersed with good rests.

Trad Routes

  1. Alternate Approach to Upper Tier (not really worth it) 5.8/9
  2. Route with anchors, not bad, but there are much better 10-'s