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Lichening the Serpant
Ergo 10c/d **. Goes up a protruding pillar to a great ledge at its top. A key side pull on a prominant ear gets you up to the steep, balancy, fun stuff. Used as the approach to 14. You're Scaring the Horses.
You're Scaring the Horses 12b ***. Rick Smith convinced a group that was testing their guns in the canyon below that they were scaring our horses on the mesa top when the route was being established. They said "sorry" and left. Most folks won't need gunfire to get their horses scared on this one. Unless you plan to top out, move the belay from the top of Ergo up and to the right, past one bolt to a stance with anchors at the base of the prominent arete. If you don't move the belay you'll run out of rope when you attempt to lower the leader back to the ledge (if the leader is lowered off the end of the rope he/she will plummet nearly 100 feet to the ground, which will really scare the horses!). The route gets progressively more difficult, culminating in a 20 foot section of slightly overhanging 11+/12- rock. Incredible moves and spectacular position (11 bolts).
- Drunk Rednecks with Golfclubs 8 *. The first ascentionists were assailed by beligerant golfers who apparently belived they were on the 19th hole at Las Companas. Luckily they didn't have a club with the combined loft and distance requirements to pose a realistic threat. The easiest bolted route at Diablo. A good place to get used to the rock. Worth doing. Can be used as an approach to Lichnening the Serpant.
- Clip Art 11d ***. Classic, very sustained, vertical to overhanging basalt climbing. Hard moves with hard to find rests. If going on to Lichening the Serpant, continue past the chains to a perch on top of a short pillar just bellow the first bolt of Lichening. A sling connects two bolts to a rap ring, which can be used for the belay and for a single 60M rope rapell for the decent.
- Lichening the Serpant 11c ***. Thought provoking movement on great rock. Requires both technique and stamana, although unlike Clip Art there are several good rests. The upper crux is on lichen covered rock, making it a poor choice on a damp day.