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Early Arete Area

4. Schmeming 12a/b ***. The bottom half of this route was originally unbolted. However, the added difficulty of very tenuous gear placements thwarted all red point attempts and caused a few near death experiences. With the concent of the original developers, three bolts were added in March 2002, which was followed in April by the first free ascent. This climb has several cruxes, with big stems, awkward cracks, balancy arete moves, and difficult traverses. A classic Diablo test piece.
5. Rock n Road 11 **. We think this is the climb refered to in Rock n Road as the "Nice 5.11 crack". In any case, a sustained and supurb route.
6. Early Arete 11d ***. The last sliver of morning sunlight fades from the wall off this arete promting the name. The improbability of this line enhances the allure. Perfect rock requiring bold movement.
7. Up to Bat 9 **. A pleasant romp. Looks harder than it is. Loose at the top. (Take some big stuff for the top). No anchors.