|The Cockscomb Crag (CCC) is located about a
mile down the main arroyo from Diablo Canyon. It is named after the prominant array of
basalt pillars on the far right end of the crag that resembles the top of a roosters head.
The best way to approach it is to drive past the normal Diablo turnoff and continue around
the Sun Devil Mesa and on toward the Rio Grande. After you pass a pump station just off
the road on your left, continue about 0.3 miles to the first crossroad that goes in both
directions. Turn left, follow the road to another pump station (~100 yards), and park on
the CCC side of the station. Walk down into the arroyo that runs behind the station and
follow it (under or over the barbed wire fence) toward the main Diablo arroyo (the fence
marks entry into National Forest from BLM land). Cross the main arroyo to a prominant wash
on the other side. The trail starts up this wash then veres right onto a well worn and
cairned trail all the way to the crag. Car to crag will take 20 to 45 minutes, depending
on if you are superhuman or more normal. One can drive all the way down to the river and
then back up the arroyo to park where the trail uphill begins. However, it will take a
fair amount more time than just walking.
The CCC faces SE, and therefore gets little sun December through February. Conversely during the summer it gets sun until after noon, making it a hot destination even in the shade. Hence, the best time to climb is March through May and September through November. The easterly aspect makes it a great place to avoid the prevailing winds in the Spring. The climbs are relatively close together in two major groupings, making it easy to get a lot accomplished in a short period of time.
The rock is generally supurb, with many classic lines in the moderately difficult range (10s & 11s). All of the sport routes (except Chicken Little, the first route established) are equipped with Springer Anchors, allowing the last person to merely clip the rope through the wire gate and lower off. Please use quickdraws for lowering until the last person in order to preserve the anchors. The routes are listed below starting from the leftmost climb and moving right: